Case File · E339

Sodium Phosphates (Sodium tripolyphosphate)

EU Limit · 2019

How chicken can be a fifth salt water and still be chicken. Also listed on labels as E339, Sodium tripolyphosphate, STPP, Phosphates, Sodium acid pyrophosphate.

E-number: E339

What it is

A family of phosphate salts used to hold water in meat, keep processed cheese smooth, leaven baked goods, and stabilize just about everything else. Phosphorus is an essential nutrient — the question here is what happens when it arrives as an additive instead of as food.

Why it's in food

Water is cheaper than meat. Phosphate solutions injected into chicken, ham, and seafood let the muscle hold that water through cooking, and the product is sold by the resulting weight. In cheese and processed foods they prevent separation.

US vs EU status

United States

GRAS. Meat and poultry can be injected with phosphate-and-salt solutions and sold at that weight, with labels reading 'enhanced,' 'contains up to X% solution,' or a percentage in small type. Nothing is concealed and most shoppers still don't catch it. Phosphate additives are also absorbed by the body far more completely than phosphorus naturally bound in food — a distinction that matters most for people with reduced kidney function.

European Union

Europe put a number on it. In 2019 its food safety authority set a group daily limit for phosphate additives for the first time — 40 mg per kilogram of body weight as phosphorus — and concluded that high consumers, particularly children and adolescents, may well exceed it. That's a regulator stating plainly that current intakes are already at the edge. The EU also constrains phosphate use in meat products more tightly than US rules do.

Common products

  • 'Enhanced' or 'basted' chicken, turkey, and pork
  • Ham, deli meat, and bacon
  • Frozen shrimp and scallops
  • Processed and American cheese
  • Colas, where phosphoric acid provides the tang
  • Baking powder, cake mixes, and instant puddings

Cleaner swaps

  • Air-chilled chicken and meat with no added solution
  • Whole cuts from a butcher counter
  • Dry-packed scallops and shrimp
  • Real cheese instead of processed slices

Case note

From the AlsoFoundIn desk

Europe reviewed phosphates in 2019, set a first-ever daily limit, and said children may already be over it. America lets you buy chicken that's a fifth salt water by weight, disclosed in small type, at chicken prices. Neither of those is a scandal exactly. Both are things you'd want to know before you shopped.

FAQ

Why is there water added to chicken?

Because phosphates let the meat hold it and the package is priced by weight. 'Enhanced' or 'contains up to 15% solution' is the label language, and it's legal and disclosed. You're buying salt water at chicken prices, and it's also why enhanced meat is harder to sear and easier to over-salt.

Are phosphate additives bad for you?

Phosphorus is essential — the issue is form and quantity. Additive phosphates are absorbed far more completely than the phosphorus naturally bound in foods, and Europe's 2019 review concluded high consumers may exceed its new daily limit. The concern is most concrete for people with impaired kidney function, for whom phosphate load is a well-established clinical issue worth discussing with a doctor.

How do I spot them?

Look for any word ending in 'phosphate' — sodium phosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium acid pyrophosphate — and, on meat, for 'enhanced,' 'basted,' 'self-basting,' or a percentage-of-solution statement. Dry-packed and air-chilled are the terms that mean the opposite.

What changed in Europe in 2019?

Its regulator set a group daily limit for phosphate additives for the first time and said openly that some groups, especially younger ones, may already exceed it. Setting a first-ever number decades into an additive's use is a specific kind of admission: it means nobody had been counting.

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